A Unique Way To Graft: The Plugger Grafting Bit from Lee Valley
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Now this is interesting – Lee Valley makes a grafting bit that lines up to the same angle as a pencil sharpener. That means you can drill a hole in the side of a tree, sharpen a freshly-cut scion from another tree, then stick the two together and seal with grafting wax.
I think we must try it. Imagine adding branches on a fruit tree wherever you like . It would be particularly useful for an espalier.
Note: we have no idea if this actually works. It may not. But if it does… what potential!
Here is the explanation from their site:
Suppose you have a tree with branches on only one side, or a bonsai with too few branches, or a lopsided espalier. Using conventional grafting methods, you would have a hard time dealing with these problems, but the Veritas® Plugger® and a common pencil sharpener can provide a quick solution to the difficulties.
The Plugger is nothing more than a cone-shaped bit with a 16° taper (the same taper as a standard pencil sharpener). This allows for a perfect fit between a hole tapered with the Plugger and a scion (the part to be grafted, usually a small branch) sharpened in a pencil sharpener. It also allows you to put branches anywhere you wish.
Note: The Plugger grafting bit can only taper an existing hole to the proper shape. It will not drill. This bit is to be used in conjunction with a 1/8″ drill bit. Use the drill bit to make the hole to the proper depth and then use the Plugger to taper the hole to the proper shape.
The cambium is the thin layer of green between the inner bark and the sapwood. As the cambium grows, the cells divide, producing bark on the outside, and sapwood on the inside of the tree. The cambium is also the source of a tree’s annual rings. Both the scion and the host plant must be from the same genus, although dissimilar (but related) genera, such as quince and pear, will sometimes join.
A successful graft requires close and firm contact between the cambium layers of the scion and the host plant (see Figure 1 ). Take care to insert the basal end (the end that was pointing towards the trunk or roots on the donor plant) into the host plant; otherwise, the graft won’t work.
To make a graft using the Plugger, proceed as follows:
Take a pencil-thick section of scion and sharpen the basal end using a pencil sharpener. Try our Giant Pencil Sharpener (99K88.01), if you don’t already have one.
Note: Always clean the blades of the pencil sharpener after you have used it in conjunction with the Plugger, as green wood will tend to clog the cutters.
With a 1/8″ drill, drill a hole 1/2″ deep into the branch or trunk that you wish to graft on. A deeper or shallower hole may be necessary, depending on the size of the scion and the thickness of the trunk. Drill into the trunk at a 90° angle, then taper the hole with the Plugger (VA101). Test the scion in the hole from time to time and stop drilling/tapering when a close fit is achieved.
Insert the scion into the tapered hole. There should be a snug fit, and the cambium layers should line up as closely as possible. If you can’t get a close fit, try sharpening the scion again. Only redrill the hole if it is too shallow to allow the cambia to match. To prevent the scion from drying out, the two areas of sapwood must be in contact.
Once the scion has been inserted, you should cover the join with grafting wax or latex-based tree wound dressing. This will retain the moisture necessary for a successful join.
This grafting method may also be used to create a natural brace for weak branches. Many trees that are not regularly pruned develop weak crotches, especially between double leaders. As the tree grows in size, the weight of these limbs increases, and they become dangerous during wind or ice storms. If the tree is still young, a natural brace can be made by joining these limbs with a scion. In this case the orientation of the basal end is of no consequence, as the tree will adjust for it (e.g., if the basal end is placed in the left leader, the sapwood will conduct toward the right leader and the inner bark will conduct towards the left leader. If the placement is reversed, the opposite will happen). It is good practice to insert the scion with bow in it, thereby giving it extra slack. This will allow the two branches to bend and sway toward and away from each other without pulling the scion out. Once the grafts take, the scion will provide a strong brace, with a more natural appearance than cables or threaded rods.
Tip: While the grafts take, it is best to keep the join stable by lashing the branches together with rubber tubing.
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